Building The  Bike | Cheap Bike To Super Bike Ep. 4
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Building The Bike | Cheap Bike To Super Bike Ep. 4

– Right, it’s the moment
you’ve all been waiting for, building up the bike from scratch, something we see in the
comments all the time. Now the eagle-eyed of
you, first up, will notice it’s now got some logos on it. That’s thanks to the folks at Cycle-istiC who did in fact send some
stickers in because they thought it looked a bit plain and, well, simple. Now there’s no specific order that the components have to be fitted on, but having built up several
hundred bikes from scratch, this is my preferred way. What I am gonna tell you, though, is that it’s ultra important to follow any manufacturer’s
recommended torque settings because parts, well,
they’re not indestructible. Let’s get on with it. (dramatic music) (upbeat electronic music) Right, so I’m gonna be
using a work stand for this, obviously, and you will notice I’m using the old seat post in
there, the reason being I don’t wanna put the
freshly new one in there because, well, they do have a tendency just to get a little bit
scratched up sometimes when you put them inside of a frame. So that will be probably
the last component I actually fit onto this bike. First thing I am gonna do is actually fit that
bottom bracket in there. So again, like I said at the
start, it’s important to follow the manufacturer’s
recommended torque settings. For these HOLLOWTECH II, Shimano recommend in between 35 and 49 Newton meters, so I’m gonna use 40 Newton meters. It’s something I’ve always done, so again, I am sticking within the limits. I’m gonna coat the threads
of the bottom bracket with some anti-seize
compound, the reason being, I don’t want these two
aluminium components to get stuck with one another. And a great little tip
that I’m gonna do, too, is actually get a little bit of plastic, this is actually the packaging
of this bottom bracket, and put it over the cups
before I put the tool on it. That way, any of this nice fancy anodizing is gonna remain nice
and intact there, too. Now when you put it into the shell, you want to make sure that
you can just tighten it up with your hand, so there we are. It’s nice and easy. It’s gonna go in there ever so well. So I know that that thread is
not gonna be cross-threaded. Can tighten that nearly all
the way, in fact, with my hand, before doing the finishing
touches with the torque wrench. (wrench clicking) Right, next up is the cable guide, which goes underneath the bottom
bracket shell on this bike. Now this is ultra important to remember to grease up these screws, so use any type of grease, because anything is better
than nothing in this situation. I’m gonna be using anti-seize because I really don’t want this bolt to get stuck in there at any time, because obviously this area of the bike is so open to abuse and
all sorts of road debris. So you wanna make sure that
the angle of this cable guide comes up suitable so that
the front derailleur cable can pop up in between the
bridge here on the chainstays and up to where the front
mech is gonna be placed. Right, next up is to fit the chainset into the bottom bracket. As you can see, there’s already
some grease inside of there, and that’s actually my
favorite type of grease. I’ve got some off it. It’s pretty expensive, so
I’m gonna leave it in there and not add anything else into the mix. However, if you’ve not
got any grease in there, I would add some in there
so it just helps the spindle go in a little bit easier. So it’s simply a case pushing it in, and then they are
obviously interference fit, so you do need to give
it a gentle tap like so, and it will pop out the other side. As you can see there on my fingers, I’ve got some little bits
of grease still left over. A few more hits and it’s good. Right, now time to fit
the left-hand crank, and this can be a little
bit confusing sometimes because not all setups are the same. But in the case of this Shimano one, well, as you can see, we’ve
got a left-hand crank here that’s got two pinch bolts
and a little plastic tap. Now these pinch bolts,
they’ve gotta be tightened up to between 12 and 14 Newton meters, and that little tab, too,
has to be pushed down, ’cause it’s almost like
a secondary safety device to stop the crank falling
off if there was a problem, and this little preload bolt
here actually pushes the crank onto the actual bottom bracket spindle. So first up, we’re going
to line up the crank. There’s only actually one place
where it can really fit up, and then put this little
plastic bolt in place. Of course, that’s got a
funny little head on it, too, so you need to use the special
tool for it, one of these, and then you simply tighten it up. Now this has got a really
small torque setting. I can’t remember what it is. It’s like 1.2 Newton meters or something, so really, you want it just finger tight. (upbeat music) Just so it pushes the crank on like so. Now it’s just a case of
tightening up these bolts. You’ve gotta do them evenly, so you don’t wanna crank
up one of them all the way to 40 Newton meters and
forget about the other. You wanna just work them in
pairs opposite one another. If anyone’s ever done
the head gasket on a car, you will know exactly about this. And before doing the finishing touches, I always like to just pop
that down into place before. There we are, there’s one. There’s the other. ♪ Take, take on ♪ ♪ Baby, when you move your body ♪ – Right, time to install
now, the fork crown, one of the jobs which, when you see a professional mechanic doing,
you’re often filled with fear because it looks like they’re
doing it completely wrong. But it’s an interference fit
product that sits down there on the top of the forks in
order for the headset bearings to mate onto it so you’ve
got nice smooth steering. But the way it’s done is
it’s placed on like so. As you can see, it won’t
go all the way down, so that means I’ve gotta use this, the crown race installer. And loads of you asked,
actually, in the comments, what on earth are those big
tools for in the background? Well, it’s for this. Sorted, time to fit the headset
cups into the head tube. Again, I’m just gonna cover the
inside of the head tube here with a little bit of grease, just so the cups go in nice
and smoothly as well as, well, hopefully, if we
ever have to replace it, they can pop out nice and easily, too. ♪ Take, take on ♪ ♪ Baby, when you move your body ♪ ♪ Take, take on ♪ ♪ Baby, when you ♪ – Time to put the headset
cups into the head tube, and another big tool
is gonna be used here, and it’s amazing that all these big tools generally aren’t used that much anymore because so many components
are simply dropped in on headsets, for instance,
and bottom rackets, well, they’re press fit,
generally, these days. But it’s important just to put these in. You can get them slightly
in there just like so before tightening them in
with a big old headset press. We wanna make sure
they’re perfectly square so you’re not gonna ovalize
the head tube in any way at all when you’re trying to push them in. (upbeat rock music) They look good to me. Time to fit the fork into the head tube, and what I’m gonna do is just put again a little dab of grease on the surface of both sets of bearings. They are sealed ones,
but it is just gonna stop any water from ingressing
inside and doing any damage. Likewise here on the fork crown,
I will do exactly the same. Despite the, well, sort of
almost rusty-like appearance, this is still perfectly okay, and it’s great that I
could reuse this headset because it’s an old one-inch diameter, so I didn’t have to go out
and buy a new one, yes. Right, time to fit the actual fork in, now I’ve done the headset greasing. Just goes through like so, and I’ve got this little split
ring here, as you can see, a little split there, that,
and I’ll just slide that down so it sits within the top
of the bearing race there, which means that I can apply some pressure via the actual stem to keep it in place. And if you’re wondering
what this little bit of blue pipe lagging is doing, you’re gonna find out
just a couple of seconds. Putting on the top cap
of the actual headset. Then I’ll put a few spacers
on, like so, and at this point, what I’m gonna do is just wipe away any little bits of grease that
we don’t need there right now and put on my handlebar and stem setup, the reason being it’s
gonna hold it in place, and the reason I’ve got
that pipe lagging on there so that if these bars
do in fact swing around, they’re not gonna bash any
paint work off of the top tube. So I’m not gonna actually
adjust the headset just yet. What I’m gonna do is just
clamp up the bolts a little bit just so they’re nicely in position. Time now to fit the rear derailleur on. Now again, I’m just gonna
put a little bit of grease inside of the threads
there just to make sure that it’s not gonna get stuck in there, because all of these components, they are susceptible
to quite a lot of abuse from the roads and debris
that comes up from them. So just a dab of grease
here on the thread. That’s enough and that
will work its way around, and the torque setting for this is between eight and 10 Newton meters, so again, I’m sticking to that. You wanna make sure that the
B-tension adjustment screw here on the back sits in
behind this little lip here on the actual rear derailleur hanger. And if in doubt, if you’re
not sure about the threads, if it’s difficult to
turn, stop immediately. This one’s nice and easy,
threading in like a dream. There we are. Just do the final bit, and there you can see
the B-tension screw there is just sitting against the back of the rear derailleur hanger. (upbeat electronic music) Right, time to install
the front derailleur, and the height setting for this one, because it’s not a braze on
type, and so it’s a band on, it can be really easily done, luckily, because of this sticker here that’s been left on the Shimano component, so the gap between the
top of the chainring and the actual mech cage here should be between one and three millimeters. Pretty precise, but
the good news is, look, there’s even like
pretend chain teeth there or chainring teeth, rather, printed on, so you can always line your own ones up. So we will place this one into position before clamping it up to between seven and nine Newton meters. You can, of course, take
off that little sticker and you can just measure it by itself. There we are, something like that. You need to bear in mind, as well, some teeth are longer
or bigger than others, so they have a higher profile, because, of course,
that aids the shifting, but this one, we’re looking good. Fitting the brake calipers,
nice and straightforward, providing, of course, you
remember to put the right one on the right part of the bike. So this one here with the longer bolt, that’s designed for the front fork because it has to get through the crown, whereas the rear one,
that just simply goes through the little brake
bridge there on the rear. Now something else to further throw a little bit of confusion into the mix is the actual retaining
nuts here for the bolts, so the one that I was supplied
with these brake calipers is really long, and that
normally goes through the fork. Now on most modern bikes,
you’ve got yourself a nice beefed-up carbon
fork, but this one, it’s an old, well, not so carbony
one, is it, let’s face it, because we’ve got an aluminium
one, so you can see there that it’s really too long for it. So I’m gonna reuse the old one, keep this one in my spare parts box. Before fitting this little retaining nut into the recess of the fork, again, I’m just gonna put a little
bit of grease in there just to help remove them
further on down the line. So then I’ll push that retaining
nut just into place here on the back of the fork crown, slide the washer over the bolt. You can see here it’s
almost like PTFE tape that they’ve pre-wrapped around. That’s gonna help the brake caliper also stay nice and snug inside of that nut, so we’re gonna put it
on there, tighten it up to between eight and 10 Newton meters. Obviously with it being a brake, you wanna pay particular attention to that and make sure you get it
tightened up correctly. Safety is paramount. (cheerful electronic music) Fitting the cassette onto
the freewheels flight here at the cassette body is
really nice and easy, because there’s normally, on all different freehub standards, one little spline here which
differentiates from the rest in order for you to
not misalign your cogs, because they can only be
fitted in one direction. Now these cogs, they’ve
come pre-supplied to me on this little plastic body here, so I can line up the thin spline like so and I can just push everything in place. How good is that? Now of course, if your
sprockets haven’t come on one of those plastic bits
or if you’re refitting them, then you wanna make sure
that if you’ve got a spline which is a little bit
different like this one here, really thin compared to the rest, that it matches up with
the thinnest cutout there on the rear of the sprocket
or on the sprocket. And the sprockets, they do tend
to have any printing on them which is visible from the drive side, so you wanna be able to read
it whilst looking at it here. If you turn them around and try and put them the other direction, then your shifting is
gonna be compromised. Make sure that that
lines up just like that before fitting the final one. And before fitting the lock ring, have a look at it on there. 40 Newton meters is the
actual torque setting. It sounds a lot, and
sometimes when you actually are applying them onto a
freehub with a torque wrench, you think to yourself,
this seems like a lot, but it’s absolutely fine. You don’t want this to come loose. Just finger-tighten it
onto the actual body. You don’t wanna cross-thread these, ’cause the lock ring
tends to be made of steel and the freehub body made of aluminium. So if you got yourself
a little tool there, you can just do it and
it will finger tighten. Obviously that’s nowhere near enough, so that’s where we need the reliable torque wrench. Right, time to fit the tires
and tubes, you remember, on it for the Continental Grand Prix 4000s. So just make sure, get
them nicely in position. Now they are directional,
these tires, so have a look on the side of them and
look out for rotation. There we are, rotation just
there, and a finishing touch is always to make sure,
so rotation, in this case, it was obviously in
the rotation of travel. Line up the Grand Prix or
maybe the Continental logo, whatever you want, with the
actual valve hole there. There’s a little pro touch,
it’s going in the Bike Vault. That’s always a bonus, isn’t it? So you just wanna place the tires on and then fit your inner tubes in. Inflate them up to the
recommended pressure before fitting ’em into the frame. When putting in the
wheel, you wanna make sure it’s pulled all the way
back in the dropout, or alternatively, do it on
the floor so you’ve actually got gravity to help do
some of the work for you. But you can look, as well,
either side of the tire down there on the
chainstay, just to make sure it is nice and central,
but generally, you know, because you will feel
the resistance in there when you’re actually
trying to pull it back. Now you’ve got the wheels in place, you can simply adjust the brake pads so they sit more in line with
the actual rim surface there. It’s gonna make the next step of installing cables and such much easier. Of course, you are gonna have
to tighten these up, as well, to the manufacturer’s recommended setting, and make sure they’re
toed in, if necessary. Manufacturer’s recommended
torque, by the way, on these is between six and eight Newton meters. (upbeat rock music) Time to fit the STI levers,
and in order to actually tighten them up to the correct
setting, what you need to do is actually peel back
the brake lever hood. So you can see one here
in its normal position. But you wanna peel it back from the rear so that essentially, you can reveal the actual tightening bolt in there. So like this, and then
you can actually see the little bolt there
you need to tighten up. It’s really hidden away. Many people can’t often find that. So of course, they are
left and right specific, so you wanna make sure they’re
on the right side of the bar. You simply put it on
and then push it around into position before tightening. And when you’ve got both of them on, you can get the bike out of the stand and then get a spirit level, making sure, of course, it is on a flat surface so they’re perfectly in
line with one another. The position where they go, well, that is entirely personal choice, so I can’t offer any
recommendations on that. Personally, I like to have it, well, kind of halfway around
the actual curve here. It’s starting to take quite
a bit of shape now, isn’t it, and beginning to, well,
look like a bike after all. Now I’m not gonna go
into all the nitty-gritty of how to cable up the bike as well as how to
determine your chain length because we do have some
absolutely great videos describing and explaining those processes in very fine detail, and
you can find a link to those in the description below. But keep watching because I’m almost done, and then I’ve gotta
give it over to Mr. Opie to go out on the road with. Now something I’m just gonna point out before I go ahead and cable
up the gearing on this bike. It’s ultra, ultra important
to put some grease on any barrel adjusters
that thread into any bosses like this on a frame, the reason being, when it came to removing these, one of them was incredibly
difficult, and sadly, the bolt actually snapped
off inside of the thread, and that was on the non-drive side here. So what did I have to do? I had to drill it out with
a 4.8 millimeter drill bit, leaving me 0.2 millimeters’
worth of thread or material in there to
actually cut a new thread in. And I was doing that at home and I was, well, beads of sweat
coming down my forehead because I really don’t like
things like that happening. Now I do pray that when
it comes to fitting the front gear cable in there, everything is gonna be fine and dandy. Otherwise, I do have an alternative plan, and that is to route the STI cables so that the rear derailleur
enters on the non-drive side, so down here on the left-hand side, because I’ve got a barrel
adjuster on the rear derailleur to take up the indexing. And then I can run the front
derailleur onto this side and fine tune the actual front derailleur, but I don’t wanna have to do that. (upbeat pop music) Tell you what, it looks
pretty good, doesn’t it? What do you reckon Opie will think? – [Man] I think you need to summon him. – Good idea, I’ll give him a call. (bell clanging)
Opie, Opie! – What, steady on, John. – Why, mate, what– – I’m deaf.
– How on earth did you– – I sneak up there between shoots. Anyway, what’ve you been up to? – Oh, well, you know, this and that. I’ve been working on a little
project bike recently and– – Is this another eBay special of yours? Bianchi without Bianchi logos? – No, it’s not. Do you not, do you not recognize it? – No. – Remember that Trek I
bought, the U.S. Postal one? – Oh, that old thing.
– You went out riding– – Yeah, yeah, yeah.
– Well, this is– – [Chris] The worst bike
I’ve ridden for a while. – Oh, right, well, this is it. – No.
– Yep, yep. – Really?
– Well, almost. It’s the same frame and
forks, other than that, oh, and the headset, but everything else is brand spanking new.
– Blimey, it’s an absolute transformation, isn’t it? – Yeah. – It’s unrecognizable. – Yeah, I can’t wait for
you to go back out with it. – Who painted this, then? – Oh, I did, gave it a quick little spray. – I’m impressed, John. – Good.
– Do you wanna put some bar tape on it for me there? – Ah, yeah, well,
actually, that’s actually why I was calling you up,
or one of the reasons, because I need you to just
go out for a quick spin just to make sure that the
levers are in the right position ’cause I know you’re a bit
finicky about these things. – Just a bit.
– Yeah. – I notice you got the brakes on the right way around, though. – Yeah, I have, yeah, front
on the left, important that. – Oh, I cannot wait, so
I get to ride this again? – Yeah.
– Sweet, I can’t wait to see how
much faster it’s gonna be because, well, last time
I could barely pedal. (John laughs)
And I got wheel spin ’cause the tires were
kinda past their best, but this looks, it looks
dreamy, it looks really cool. – Well, I’m glad you like it, ’cause there’s been lots of
hard work gone into this, and well, I don’t know if you want me to put the original saddle
back on or not, but– – No, I think this is
more my kind of flavor. – All right, okay, cool. Right, well, that is it. The next time you see
this baby out on the road, Opie, he’s gonna be tackling
Draycott again on it to try and beat his time
and, well, really to see if we can turn a cheap bike
into a super bike after all. So stay tuned for that
one, and don’t forget, too, to like and share this
video with your friends, and remember, as well, to
subscribe to the channel. For two more great episodes
building up this bike and such like, click on Mr. Opie.

100 thoughts on “Building The Bike | Cheap Bike To Super Bike Ep. 4

  1. Well I look for it and couldn't find it. Screw it.
    How about titling your videos and order in the same way so we can find them this is so f**** aggravating.

  2. When I saw this video, I knew this is going to be awesome so I patiently waited for this actual test ride to be uploaded before watching the video to save myself from being too excited for this bike.

  3. What a superb video. I really liked the attention to detail and the way you followed all the torque settings. Ending up with a really nice bike. Great Job. One question though, why do you say wiring up the front brake correctly if this is on the left hand side? Just curious. Thank you.

  4. Threadlocking compound on the brake bolt thread is "almost" like ptfe tape!!! Well yes, they are both plastic compounds. But ptfe is one of the most slippery substances known. Thread locker otoh is meant to do the opposite.
    I also think you are too slavishly fond of torque numbers. Each to their own:)

  5. Jon the correct tapping drill for m5 (metric 5) is 4.2mm not 4.8. This could save someone from destroying a frame. Once drilled run an m5 tap. Much less risk!

  6. Hi Jon
    Howmuch did the bile cost with all the new parts. Did you do the paint work? Enjoyed every minute of the video.

  7. I typically put tires and wheels on first, that way you can that way you can roll it out of the way if something else has to be on the stand. Also, I understand the love for that color but you know it adds weight right. After sanding and stripping off the paint, I polished my frame one time. And it was arm breaking work, but I love the end result.

  8. Great video, but never ratchet your torque wrench. It knocks it out of calibration. Also you hold it from the center of the handle and nice slow turn for an accurate torque. Other then that, great video

  9. Nice video. I will get my bike redone. I have a nice road bike I have not rode in years. Will have it taking apart and have some new stuff put on before I use it again. Back into working out again. Thank You. Did the video.

  10. Should have done this upgrade to the raleigh use in the cheap bike Vs super bike this would have given a measure of the improvements in a second test and know if it was worth the time and money spent

  11. You didn't show us the insertion of the head set bearings! Is there a top and bottom? Do they need grease before you set them in? you showed greasing them after you had inserted them. Did I miss you adjusting the gearing and setting the breaks? Usually the hardest thing to get perfect.

  12. The same I do with my giant ocr 3 aluminum frame. Ordered an ultegra r8000 groupset, then a fulcrum nite wheelset and a selle italia slr superflow.

  13. Realy nice bike, …Q1 : Is the fork also in aluminium? …Q2 : Would a carbon fork fit on this frame? Thank you.

  14. I've learned a lot from all the GCN videos I've seen. I have to say, this one
    is particularly packed with information and one of my favorites. Thank you.

  15. The FD setting of 1-3mm is ridiculous. Has to be at least 3mm, about 4-5mm for me else chain gets jammed between mech and top ring when shifting up.

  16. Thanks mate for such great idea. I have repainted and still upgrading old (10+ years) MTB bicycle of my wife. Will be spent ~€300 for almost full rebuild. Started with Tourney / Altus items on board. I guess Deore parts will make a difference.

  17. Sorry,but every good mechanic would have got
    rid of the lacque at the bottom bracket and the steering tube
    right before installing bottom bracket and ahead set.

  18. This is not a super bike, a nice upgrade but far from a super bike. And it’s definitely not a Bianchi so don’t use their colour.

  19. The crown race installer reminds me of me using a pvc pipe to remove and reinstall stators on 75yr+ old electric fans. The stator housings on the fans i buy are cast iron so i can just lightly tap them out.

    So off topic from bikes, but i love the build. I am rebuilding a 1972 shwinn collegiate in my college dorm room haha, I gotten it to fully ridable condition with new tubes/ tires. Also replaced the shifter cable and housings . Gave it some new brake pads and put some greased the front bearing and temporarily just put synthetic oil on the crank and rear wheel bearing.

  20. Of course if you have a decent frame, and yes Alum can make a decent frame. You can make a great bike out of it. Limited budget is what makes it hard to do.

    I bet many would like to do something like this.

  21. no "anti-seize" onto the freehub body and the cassette lockring ? are you not afraid about hasards when canging the casette after two salty and whet winters ?

  22. 21:45 "I notice you got the brakes the right way round…." "Yeah, front brake on the left"…….

    We in the UK have the Front brake on the RIGHT hand side.

    If you want them on the LEFT then go to USA or some other uninformed/ignorant country.

  23. Brilliant..really love this 'to die for' worlshop..could you please explain a bit about the power tool and the process of preparing the frame for painting..many thanks

  24. isn't it cheaper to buy a new body instead of a complete second hand bike if you were going to change everything anyways

  25. I know very little about building bikes but I loved watching that. And I wish my garage looked even 10% as tidy and organised as that. 😛

  26. Do a mirror image one – how much slower can you make a super bike by adding naff equipment? Would prove the same point in a way.

  27. I saw a video with one of your GC and people were racing a tournament and it looked like a racing that bike is this the case

  28. Nice job John. However, 105 groupset makes for a rather modest version of a super bike, although, admittedly, it could be worse.

  29. i fix hundreds of bikes and rebuild them so when i find the very few with left hand front brake i change it back strait away .all the cycles iv come across and its been hundreds are left hand rears .thats comon sence .only woman prefer left hand front,some thing about being left brain,and i think its historical and it just makes sence has the right hand is for changing the rear 7 oe 8 ect and the left hand front derailer is not used so much where has the right hand is used a lot .i wouldent be able to sleep if i sold a cycle with left front brk has it would cause some one to catupalt over the handle bars.anyway thats my 5 cents worth

  30. Está horrible ese cuadro ojalá no le dejes las piezas…solo sea una muestra de armado….🤷‍♂️😬😬😬😬

  31. The crank and steering head are not interference fits. If they were , you would be into heating things up to expand them before they would fit together. Then when they cooled they would not turn against each other.

  32. Why front brake shoud be on left lever? It is oposite to motorbikes. and that is why i always swich cables on my bicycles.

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